Askernish Old — My favorite course (is one that I’ve never played.)
(“Askernish Old” is the name used by a number of golf writers to describe the 1891 Old Tom Morris designed golf course on remote South Uist, an island in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides that was quite literally “lost in the sands of time” and rediscovered in 2005. It has since been restored and as far as I know is currently the only course on the island... unlike St Andrews you will find no “Askernish New.”)
It was early August 2008 when I first heard of Askernish Golf Club — I received an email from Bill Davison, one of our members whose primary home is in Florida...
“...I gave your name to Ralph Thompson, Chairman of the Askernish Golf Club. You are probably aware of this Old Tom Morris course recently being "rediscovered" and the fanfare in the world's press over it. It is being re-opened later this month... John Garrity recently wrote in "The Resurrection of Askernish Old" in Travel + Leisure Golf that this was to be the #1 course in the world on his list...”
A wee bit embarrassing perhaps, but I had actually missed the fanfare completely. I claimed to be working too hard and not paying enough attention to what was really important.
But now, Bill had gotten me interested and the wheels started spinning. There was too much synchronicity to ignore... John Garrity is a long-time member of the Shivas Irons Society—fourteen years earlier he had written a feature story in Sports Illustrated about the Society. [“Magic and Magoo,” December 5, 1994, SI Golf Extra.] Through his writing and personal conversations, John introduced me to Carne GC in Ireland which I had the pleasure of visiting in 2006. The experience taught me to respect his recommendations — and he ranks Askernish Old as Number 1 in the world —praise not to be taken lightly. I began an email correspondence with Ralph Thompson at Askernish. The more I learned the more it seemed that this was a place that Shivas would love... the remote location, the elements of mystery, discovery and historical inquiry, the environmental principles which were being applied to the restoration... everything about Askernish was intriguing.
The notoriety of Askernish was further increased in May of 2009, when New Yorker magazine published a major article by David Owen titled “THE GHOST COURSE: Links to the past on a Scottish island.”
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Non-resident country memberships at Askernish are available for $125 per year.
See their website for full information.
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In January, Ralph Thompson became a member of the Shivas Irons Society and together we began to explore the possibility of a future SIS outing at Askernish — possibly as part our 2010 Kingdom Tour. Although logistics and timing precluded making it part of our regular itinerary, David Currie and Mead Montgomery, two members of our company of 12 golfers did supplement their journey with a visit to the Hebrides... Alas, I did not join them but I am now happy to add their descriptions (exclamations points and all) to everything else that has already been written about Askernish and you will understand why it is now my personal favorite course, even though I have never played there.
Keep in mind that the following accounts from David and Mead were made after a journey that had included rounds at such historic links as Turnberry, Prestwick, Machrihanish and Royal Troon.
From David Currie:
I promised a report on the excursion Mead and I took to The Hebrides to play Askernish Old. The flight was easy [1 hour] and the drive straightforward as there is only one main road on South Uist.
I will allow that Mead’s superlatives may differ from mine but I can only sum up my reaction by – OH MY GOD…..! This is a very very special place which some have aptly described as the holy grail of links golf. My own view is that, while I thoroughly enjoyed every course we played, this surpassed them all and I can see why John Garrity of Sports Illustrated ranks it #1 of his Top 50 worldwide [Garrity was actually on the course several holes ahead of us but finished and left straight for the airport].
As well, we lucked out on the weather as Saturday was clear and perfectly still and Sunday similar except with a light breeze. Monday threw a little rain at us on the front but that cleared off on the back. Ralph Thompson [chair of the club & SIS member] played with us Sunday & Monday and arranged for a couple of members to join us on the Monday. Ralph is a big man [taller than I am] with a big presence and thoroughly delightful and welcoming.
 The course is laid out pretty much as Mother Nature presented it. It’s far more up and down than any of the others and there are no flat lies on the fairways and plenty of rabbit holes to swallow your ball. Fortunately, the local rules allow a free lift! Only one green required some movement of earth during the layout. Otherwise, the greens are merely an extension of the fairways grasses mowed shorter. This is how greens were in the days of Old Tom and there was a special feeling associated with putting on such a course surface. In fact, my old hickory putter developed a sense of reincarnation and served me exceedingly well…!
I can honestly say that the spirit of Shivas Lives on these links..!
The photos in the attachment (click here to see a slideshow) are all courtesy of world renowned golf photographer, Aidan Bradley as they are much better than anything I took. Incidentally, Aidan is also a member of Askernish and has contributed his talents to further the development and success of this venture.
Askernish is currently the best kept secret in the golfing world but this will undoubtedly change with the likes of Mike Kaiser and others taking a very keen interest. It would be fun the hold a Shivas event there. With a little forward planning there is adequate accommodation on the island with three quaint historic inns within 10 minutes of the course as well as a very unique old hunting & fishing lodge (www.grogarrylodge.com) that was used by the aristocracy for many years and has been converted for those of us who reside below the salt…!
Anyway, food for thought! In the meantime, I thoroughly enjoyed our time together. What a unique and diverse group of irregulars and it is through the spirit of Shivas that we come together and get along so well.
In true gravity,
David
Additional commentary from Mead Montgomery:
I would add only a couple of notes to David's report, which if anything, may be understated.
 Take nothing away from the majesty of Turnberry, but there is something magical about a course that is simply laid out in the dunes with the fescue and terrain entirely in the hands of mother nature.
The simplicity is aptly described by the following anecdote by Ralph Thompson. The R & A gave them £5,000 (apx. $7,500) to assist in the construction of the course. On being asked how the money was used, Ralph reported that they were able to build the 12th hole and two additional fairways. The R & A wrote back, "no, what did you do with the £5,000?" They were unable to comprehend the way the course was being developed.
This is truly a walking course. There were no caddies, although I suspect that locals could be dragooned into caddying. The paths are often merely trails off the tees to the fairways, several extremely steep, or from greens up to the next tee, so not room for a push cart. We carried for the three rounds. I think a good plan is to bring a lightweight carry-bag and a reduced set of clubs.
The weather changes very fast. David described the beautiful Sunday afternoon, but he skipped that fact that when we woke up Sunday morning it was blowing a full gale with rain rattling on the windows like a snare drum. Nobody left the inn during the morning hours. All of us were quite happily sequestered in the lounge with our books.
All in all, a magical visit, to a remote part of Scotland. I am ready to go again! Now!
Cheers to all,
Mead
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